Academic Papers
- Durrani, M. (2018). “People gather for stranger things, so why not this?” Learning sustainable sensibilities through communal garment-mending practices. Sustainability, 10(7), 2218. https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/10/7/2218
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Durrani, M. (2021). “Like Stitches to a Wound”: Fashioning Taste in and Through Garment Mending Practices. Journal of Contemporary Ethnography, 08912416211012031.
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/08912416211012031 -
Niinimäki, K., & Durrani, M. (2020). Repairing Fashion Cultures: From Disposable to Repairable. RESPONSIBLE CONSUMPTION AND PRODUCTION, 153.
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Durrani, M. (2018). Designers by any other name: exploring the sociomaterial practices of vernacular garment menders. In Design Research Society International Conference (pp. 1731-1746). Design Research Society.
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Durrani, M., Niinimäki, K., & McLauchlan, S. (2019). Designing for and with garment repair: an exploration of future possibilities. In Product Lifetimes and the Environment. TU Berlin University Press.
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Niinimäki, K., Durrani, M., & Kohtala, C. (2021). Emerging DIY activities to enable well-being and connected societies. Craft Research, 12(1), 9-29.
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Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H. et al. The environmental price of fast fashion. Nat Rev Earth Environ 1, 189–200 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9
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Clothing Cultures: open source:
www.ingentaconnect.com/content/intellect/cc/2018/00000005/00000001 -
Improved solutions for shared value creation and maximization from used clothes: Streamlined structure of clothing consumption system and a framework of closed loop hybrid business model https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2666784321000334?via%3Dihub
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Vinit Jain, Will O’Brien, Thomas P. Gloria, Improved solutions for shared value creation and maximization from used clothes: Streamlined structure of clothing consumption system and a framework of closed loop hybrid business model, Cleaner and Responsible Consumption, Volume 3, 2021, 100039, ISSN 2666-7843,
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Payne, Alice. (2017). “Fashion Futuring in the Anthropocene: Sustainable Fashion as “Taming” and “Rewilding” Fashion Theory: 1-19. www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/1362704X.2017.1374097
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The wages of sweat: A social history perspective on the fight against sweatshops. PaulineBarraud de Lagerie
www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0038029613000794?via%3Dihub -
Linden, Annie Radner, “An Analysis of the Fast Fashion Industry” (2016). https://digitalcommons.bard.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1033&context=senproj_f2016
FILMS AND DOCUMENTARIES
- The true cost (2015) https://truecostmovie.com/
- River blue (2017) https://riverbluethemovie.eco/
- The Machinists (2010)
- Luxury: Behind the Mirror (2019)
- Made In Bangladesh (2020)
- The Next Black (2014)
- Made In America (2021) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXCBeJJ-ZH8
- Udita (Arise) (2015) https://www.reelhouse.org/rainbowcollective/udita-arise
- Unravel (2012)
- The Clothes We Wear (2020)
- Traceable (2014)
- Alex James: Slowing Down Fast Fashion (2016)
NETWORKS
- Fixing Fashion
https://community.fixing.fashion/academy/start/intro.html - The Union of Concerned Researchers in Fashion (UCRF)
https://concernedresearchers.org/ - Fibershed https://fibershed.org/
- Sustainable Fashion Week www.sustainablefashionweek.uk
- Earth Logic https://earthlogic.info/
- Fostering Sustainable Practices Hub https://www.sustainable-fashion.com/fsp
- Fashion Fictions https://fashionfictions.org/
- Crafting the Commons network commoners.craftspace.co.uk/
- Stitching Together https://stitchingtogether.net/
- Convivial Clothing https://sites.google.com/view/convivial-clothing/home?authuser=1
ARTICLES
- Microplastics https://amp.theguardian.com/environment/2021/dec/08/microplastics-damage-human-cells-study-plastic
- “Between XR and COP: Pivoting climate movement strategy from the radical flank effect to a ‘moderate’ flank, via a shift toward workplace-based activism” by Rupert Read
https://www.greenhousethinktank.org/uploads/4/8/3/2/48324387/climate_movement_strategy_gas.pdf - The Fashion Industry Could Reduce Emissions—if It Wanted To / 13 November 2021 https://www.wired.com/story/fashion-industry-reduce-emissions/
- Microplastics 7 November 2021
https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-10175573/New-fears-microplastics-home-inhale-7-000-particles-day.html - Are clothes made from recycled materials really more sustainable? November 2021
https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2021/nov/06/clothes-made-from-recycled-materials-sustainable-plastic-climate - The COP26 plastic uniforms are a disaster for the environment November 2021 https://sciencenorway.no/clothing-opinion-plastic/the-cop26-plastic-uniforms-are-a-disaster-for-the-environment/1931507
- The leather industry calls on COP26 to prioritise natural materials
https://www.leathernaturally.org/Latest/Featured-Articles/Featured-Articles/COP26-Our-Materials-Impact-Our-Climate - Pandemic and Fast Fashion Oct 2021
https://www.fastcompany.com/90688828/you-thought-the-pandemic-killed-fast-fashion-not-even-close - Why Can’t Fashion Brands Just Make Less Stuff? October 2021 https://ecocult.com/fashion-degrowth-gdp/
- African Rivers Turn Blue, Amid Pollution From Fast Fashion https://impakter.com/african-rivers-turn-blue-amid-pollution-from-fast-fashion/
- COTTON: A CASE STUDY IN MISINFORMATION
https://www.transformersfoundation.org/cotton-report-2021 - How to Quit Fast Fashion, According to Aja Barber October 2021
https://www.vogue.com/article/aja-barber-consumed - Eco-Fashion’s Animal Rights Delusion https://craftsmanship.net/eco-fashions-animal-rights-delusion/
- Natural dyes https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20210823-the-man-preserving-endangered-colours
- Letter: Fast fashion should be honest with consumers about plastics https://www.ft.com/content/1c63c88b-4db5-49ef-b21c-5bb4f16fdf14
- ‘Soil is miraculous’: How regenerative agriculture could transform fashion https://www-euronews-com.cdn.ampproject.org/c/s/www.euronews.com/green/amp/2021/07/09/soil-is-miraculous-how-regenerative-agriculture-could-transform-fashion
- What’s the deal with synthetic fibres? https://greennews.ie/synthetic-fibres-feature/
- Waste colonialism https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-08-12/fast-fashion-turning-parts-ghana-into-toxic-landfill/100358702
- There are thousands more toxic chemicals in plastic than we thought https://www.fastcompany.com/90649480/there-are-thousands-more-toxic-chemicals-in-plastic-than-we-thought
- Plastic ingestion by humans could equate to eating a credit card a week https://wwf.panda.org/discover/our_focus/markets/?348375/Plastic-ingestion-by-humans-could-equate-to-eating-a-credit-card-a-week
- Cultural appropriation #NotPublicDomain:
https://www.fashionrevolution.org/notpublicdomain-indigenous-communities-combat-cultural-appropriation-with-traditional-textile-design-database/
MAGAZINES AND JOURNALS
REPORTS
- Fixing Fashion Report https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm201719/cmselect/cmenvaud/1952/1952.pdf
- A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future Ellen Macarthur https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy
- Fashion on Climate report https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/fashion-on-climate
- Recommendations for the EU Strategy for Sustainable Textiles, from Environmental Civil Society Organisations. (2021)
- https://www.rreuse.org/wp-content/uploads/environmental-csos-recommendations-for-the-eu-strategy-for-sustainable-textiles-june-2021.pdf
- The Great Greenwashing Machine September 2021 https://eco-age.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/REPORT_Final_72dpi2.pdf
- FAST FASHION’S PLASTIC PROBLEM Sustainability and material usage in online fashion https://www.thersa.org/globalassets/reports/2021/fast-fashions-plastic-problem.pdf
- Plastic https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acs.est.1c00976
- Clothing rentals
https://timorissanen.wordpress.com/2021/07/25/brief-thoughts-on-clothing-rentals/
BOOKS
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Sustainable Fashion and Textiles in Latin America, by Miguel Ángel GardettiRosa Patricia Larios-Francia (2021)
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Durrani, M. (2019). Through the threaded needle: A multi-sited ethnography on the sociomateriality of garment mending practices. Aalto University.
https://aaltodoc.aalto.fi/bitstream/handle/123456789/41489/isbn9789526088013.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y -
Design and Nature: New ways of knowing for sustainability, by Fletcher, Kate and St Pierre, Louise and Tham, Mathilda (2019) https://katefletcher.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/LeNSin_Design-and-nature.pdf
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Wild Dress: Clothing & The Natural World by Kate Fletcher (2019)
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Design And Nature: A Partnership, by Kate Fletcher (2019)
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Clothing Poverty: The Hidden World of Fast Fashion and Second-Hand Clothes Andrew Brooks (2019)
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Women’s Work: The First 20,000 Years : Women, Cloth, and Society in Early Times, by by Elizabeth Wayland Barbert (1996)
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Empire of Cotton: A Global History by Sven Beckert
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Rise and Resist, by Clare Press
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Fashion and Post colonial Critique, edited by Elke Gaugelle and Monica Titton
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How To Break Up With Fast Fashion: A guilt-free guide to changing the way you shop – for good Lauren Bravo
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Sustainability in Fashion: A Cradle to Upcycle Approach edited by Claudia E. Henninger, Panayiota J. Alevizou, Helen Goworek, Daniella Ryding
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Loved Clothes Last: How the Joy of Rewearing and Repairing Your Clothes Can Be a Revolutionary Act, by Orsola De Castro ( 2021)
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Folk Fashion: Understanding Homemade Clothes, by Amy Twigger Holroyd (2017)
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Fibershed: Growing a Movement of Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Makers for a New Textile Economy, by Courtney White and Rebecca Burgess ( 2019)
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Stitched Up: The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion, by Tansy E. Hoskins ( 2014)
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Foot Work, by Tansy E. Hoskins ( 2020)
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To Die for: Is Fashion Wearing Out the World? ,by Lucy Siegle (2011)
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The Fabric of Civilization: How Textiles Made the World, by Virginia Postrel (2020)
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Earth Logic Fashion Action Research Plan by Kate Fletcher, Mathilda Tham
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Craft Of Use: Post-Growth Fashion, by Kate Fletcher (2016)
AUDIO
- On COP26 Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action https://monocle.com/radio/shows/monocle-on-design/527/what-next-for-fashion/ 16 November 2021
- Decolonizing Fashion Studies 8th November 2021 https://anchor.fm/chic-podcast/episodes/Episode-34–Decolonizing-Fashion-Studies–Guest-Lecture-at-the-Royal-Academy-of-Copenhagen-e19ukfi
INSPIRATION AND HOW-TO
- Mending Matters: Stitch, Patch, and Repair Your Favorite Denim & More by by Katrina Rodabaugh ( 2018)
- The Mending Directory: 50 Modern Stitch Patterns for Visible Repairs (2021)
- The Art of Repair: Mindful mending: how to stitch old things to new life (2021)
- Joyful Mending: Visible Repairs for the Perfectly Imperfect Things We Love! by Noriko Misumi ( 2020)
- Make Thrift Mend: Stitch, Patch, Darn, Plant-Dye & Love Your Wardrobe, by Katrina Rodabaugh ( 2021)
- Mending with Love by Noriko Misumi ( 2021)
- Mend & Patch by Kerstin Neumüller (2019)
- Darning: repair, make, mend, by Hikaru Noguchi (2020)
- Mending Tips SeaSalt https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOP9oZqAFZ0
CURRICULUM
(formal or informal education, online courses, resources, etc.) on fashion for climate justice
- Fashion and Sustainability: Understanding Luxury Fashion in a Changing World https://www.futurelearn.com/courses/fashion-and-sustainability
- Fashion Values: Nature https://www.futurelearn.com/courses/fashion-values-nature
- Fashion Values: Economy https://www.futurelearn.com/courses/fashion-values-economy
- Future learn general on Fashion https://www.futurelearn.com/subjects/creative-arts-and-media-courses/fashion
- Slow Factory https://slowfactory.earth/
INTERVIEW AND VIDEOS
- Dead White Man’s Clothes: Second Hand Clothes Creating Toxic Landfill In Ghana https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bB3kuuBPVys
- Talks and webinars https://wear.fashiontakesaction.com/
- Usership: fashion beyond consumerism | Kate Fletcher | TEDxMacclesfield https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHIHvHsTmSA
- Kate Fletcher talking to BBC Radio 4. 3rd November 2021 https://twitter.com/BBCr4today/status/1455832420364783622?s=20&fbclid=IwAR0x4y2k8iVslj2ea1SsXxPkalDlnibkXGBzw7ErSXJ8EV2MneGmAW2xIhI
- #EUCircularTalks: Circular textile design – Get it right from the start! Nov 2021 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGr1fr7_jH4 more here
- Make the Label Count https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lka3AdexN6U
- Make the Label Count Launch Campaign October 2021 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2v1eXTJT3Y
- The New EU Textile Strategy September 2021 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHel53EkZSA
- Fashionscapes: A Circular Economy September 2021 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8otUHs-PDOk
- The future is traceable https://www.instagram.com/p/CRjbAWqFwUw/
- Knit, Reknit and Reimagine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ofFb8imcvU&t=32s
- Plastic diet https://yourplasticdiet.org/